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AXIOLOGY OF THE CHINESE CLOTHING CULTURE AND “FASHION INDUSTRY” IN THE PARADIGM “TRADITION - INNOVATION” (AUTHOR’S REFLECTION)

https://doi.org/10.18384/2310-7227-2021-1-102-110

Abstract

Aim. To reveal the axiological dominants of the ancient Chinese national clothing culture in the combination of tradition and innovation, and to substantiate the bioethical paradigm of modern “fur consumption”, the trend of “fur fashion”. This will allow substantiate the current approach of combining the principle of inheriting native national traditions in the culture of costume and fashion, and outline the optimal mechanisms for integrating Chinese clothing culture into the global costume and fashion industry. Methodology. The researchers’ views are analyzed. The procedure and methods of research are determined by the general conceptual field of the study of the phenomenon of costume and fashion in the history of Chinese culture, in connection with which the author used: the dialectical method as the main one for a holistic understanding of the cultural and historical genesis of costume and fashion in the national Chinese tradition, which allowed to reveal the phenomenology of clothing culture and its symbolism with due depth; the method of cultural-historical reconstruction, which allowed to trace the Genesis and evolution of clothing materials in the cultural practices of Ancient China, to establish a good rapport early forms, samples of clothing and modern dress culture, the ethnographic method is also used to justify the principle of inheritance of ancient Chinese traditions in the culture of clothing, clarifying the specifics of the traditional “yuan weaving”, a unique technology of making the yuan cloth; general philosophical methods and principles, contextual and cultural-historical approaches for the purpose of philosophical problematization of the axiology of national clothing culture in the combination of tradition and innovation, etc. Results. On the basis of the scientific research it is stated: 1) from the standpoint of the bioethical paradigm and environmental issues, it is proved that the innovative use of fur and multi-materials, the popularization of mixed design technologies in the culture of modern clothing a) contribute to bridging the gap between the decorative and functional aspects of traditional clothing, b) will minimize the use of natural material of animal origin without compromising the natural balance of the living world (refusal of the functional use of animal wool as a good insulation of clothing, etc.). 2) The author has developed practical recommendations for the development of priority technologies of modern mixed fashion design, which are relevant at the transition stage of the transition from the conservative design practices of fur clothing design to the current mixed-type model, which, in the author’s opinion, indicates a qualitatively new era in the culture of clothing of a new generation . Research implications. Theoretical / practical significance consists in: substantiating their own original ideas (including applied ones) that are of interest to modern Chinese designers, specialists in clothing culture and fashion industry; in search and research, archival (in particular, translation) work with ancient Chinese literary written sources; in the author’s participation in targeted field expeditions to reconstruct the early stages of the genesis of Chinese clothing culture, interpretation of ancient clothing materials; in the conceptualization of the axiology of national clothing culture from the perspective of combining tradition and innovation; also analyzed the problem areas and the main lines of “trend fur fashion” in the context of the bioethical paradigm and global environmental issues

About the Authors

Y. P. Tao
Belgorod State Institute of Arts and Culture
Russian Federation


G. N. Kalinina
Belgorod State Institute of Arts and Culture
Russian Federation


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